Each Cook Must Learn At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Secures 4th on Roll of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.

Stephen Avila
Stephen Avila

James Whitfield is a cloud technology analyst with over a decade of experience in cloud infrastructure and digital transformation.